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Writer's pictureAmy

Varnish a watercolor Painting (it's possible)

If you are not framing a watercolor painting (maybe you mounted it on a panel) then it is probably a good idea to varnish it.


Varnishing can protect your painting from dirt and gives it a little bit of protection from those UV sun rays.


If longevity (being pristine 200 years from now) is most important you might need to commit to framing your watercolor painting. Traditional framing is the best way to protect your watercolor painting. However, if you like to live a little more on the edge then you can mount your watercolor painting (shown above). When you do that, then you should varnish it.


I scoured the internet to learn this process. So I hope you've found this post and you can now stop your search for information. I am sharing my process. This is what has worked best for me and I hope it's helpful.


I'm in love with watercolor paper so for me, the trade off of truly enjoying my painting while shortening its life span is worth it to me.

#1 Preparatory step- Gather materials


Things you're goin' want

  • The painting

  • a well ventilated room with no wind and minimized dirt.

  • A table for the painting to rest on

  • Golden Spray Varnish (I prefer Semi-Gloss, but that's up to you)

  • Golden Isolation Coat

  • Brush

  • little container to pour isolation coat into (plastic lid, palette or plate etc.)


  Tip 1:

It's best to let the piece dry flat. I have previously used a garage. If your studio is pet free and has windows, congratulations, you're already ready. Outside is well ventilated but the atmospheric conditions will probably result in an uneven finish because you're going to be spraying the varnish.


#2 Eliminate dirt

The first step is to dust off your painting. Use a clean dry brush, your fingers or a lint free towel/shop towel to remove dust, dirt and cat hair. Anything left on the surface is about to become permanent.


#3 Spray

Okay so we are actually varnishing now.


Hold your spray can about 6-12 inches above your painting and move back and forth in even motions.


You have 2 goals: you want to get your painting evenly coated but you don't want to spray too heavy of a layer down. If your layer is not even then some areas of the painting will be exposed and when you brush on the isolation coat then that paint might bleed. If you do a very heavy layer then it may effect the look of the painting (a bit blurry and muted).


Each spray layer needs at least 20 minutes to dry. I do 6 spray coats to ensure that the whole painting is covered. You may do a few more layers if your painting is heavily pigmented or if it is very large.


Side Note:

**I've heard of artists doing this whole first step using Fixative spray instead of varnish. I think that probably works, but since I know this way works I've stuck with it. Fixative spray would have the benefit of not sealing in dirt for those first 6 layers (although it will happen anyway with the isolation coat) and it is slightly cheaper. However, the varnish spray has the added benefit of UV protection.


#4 Brush on


After, your 6 spray coats have dried then you will do the isolation layer.


SO the 6 original spray coats were in preparation for this layer. The isolation layer is a brush on medium. You can image that if you brushed on a wet medium into a watercolor painting- it would bleed.


Get your little surface container (I use a Tupperware lid) and your brush ready. I shake up the isolation coat but then try to minimize the air bubbles. So maybe shake it a bit before pouring. Pour the medium into your container.


Gently, methodically brush your medium onto the painting surface. Make sure to get entire surface. It is best to do a very thin layer. You may always do a second or third layer if needed. This layer needs at least 8 hours to cure, although I think the manufacturer recommends 24 hours. I usually just let it rest overnight.


Try to pick out any remaining hairs while this layer is wet, it's your last chance before they are sealed forever.


The purpose of this layer is to create a permanent barrier. You are effectively making the watercolor into an acrylic surface. This ensures that if you ever need to clean the surface then you will not damage the painting.



#5 Spray


Your isolation coat is dry.


You may now spray 2-4 (I do 3) top coat layers. These layers add extra protection for UV but more importantly against dirt. The spray is removable so it's important to add a few layers that can take the dirt and then be removed and reapplied.

Don't forget to let each layer dry for 20 mins.


Tip 2:

You can still frame your painting and it will protect the tender edges of the paper. I recommend a floating frame which is essentially a box around your painting. No glass necessary. (although your framer will probably try to convince you, but remember, you're the boss).


Good luck! Message me if you have questions.



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